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Eugene Leafty
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Corvette BibleCommon Problems Common Problems Leaking Battery Many C5's came with AC Delco Freedom batteries that tend to have the case crack near the battery posts. The leaking battery acid would drip down the side of the battery, down the funnel-like battery support, straight down onto the PCM and the wiring loom. It can also get onto the A/C lines. I believe they are the vacuum lines that control the movement of the interior vents, and usually the system will default to blowing out the defroster vent. Sometimes car crippling damage would occur, sometimes not. It worst it would mean replacing the battery, the PCM, the wiring harness, grinding the rust off the frame to repaint it, changing the A/C lines and possibly swapping out another computer as well. This mostly happened on early C5’s because later C5’s used a gel-type battery that cannot leak, but I believe the problem resurfaced on ’04 or ’05 models again. Check this out before buying a C5. Use a 8 mm monkey wrench, preferably a ratcheting closed-end version, to removed the battery cables. You also remove a holding block on the front side of the battery. You will need a long extension to reach it. The battery lifts out, then remove the black plastic battery tray. Look under the tray for rust or white powder--signs of evidence of battery acid damage. It would probably be best to move to the next Vette unless you don't mind possibly tackling this repair in the future. It's possible that the car will throw codes for no apparent reason. No matter what Vette you buy, replace the battery with a gel-type battery, like the Optima Redtop, sold at CostCo for $100. Grounding Problems aka CRAZY electrical gremlins! Bill Curlee has a great thread on the problems that corroded ground connections can create, and how to clean out the grounds. The most problematic ground connections are behind the headlights on both sides. Check out Bill’s thread for detailed info: Go! Here’s where all the grounds are: Go! Water Intrusion Water leaks have several ways of getting in the car, and none of them AFAIK are very difficult to fix. Proper adjustments and maintenance will prevent most leaks. Bill Curlee’s thread abouting locating & cleaning the udders, and sealing the door hinges. Here’s a few TSB’s from the CorvetteActionCenter.com: 1997-1998: Service Bulletin: Waterleak Above Door Glass (Reseal Blowout Clip) 1997-2002: Service Bulletin: General Waterleak Guide 1997: Service Bulletin: Water Drips into Rear Compartment After Hatch/Glass Has Been Opened Seats Corvette seats are delicate. Sliding hard across the bolster can break it, causing it to flap side-to-side. The leather is cheap, and there's little protection for it. It will wear out and form cracks, which is normal…for cheap leather. The wire springs in the seat bottom, and the bars in the bolsters can also wear thru the foam and leather, but that can be fixed by placing layer of burlap between the springs and the foam. Check the black plastic surround on the bottom of the seat to make sure it fits snugly against the leather, and isn't cracked. Older style plastic surrounds had a tendency to separate from the seat, but could be pushed back in. The newer style plastic surrounds can be used as a direct replacement, but one of the plastic studs may need to be ground off, or a hole will need to get punched into the leather. The seats tend to rock back and forth by about a 1/4" during acceleration and braking. It can be fixed, but GM will not fix it. Some lucky owners can get the dealer to replace the frame under warranty. The seat backs swinging forward under braking is normal, and not considered a problem. Here are a couple fixes: Corvettemechanic.com --- must be a member Rocking Seat Fix Seat choice Get the sport seats. The sport seats have a hole under the headrest. Some people put racing harness belts thru those loops. The seat frames and foam in both seats are interchangeable. Harness belt holes can be installed using Ford harness cutouts. Ask the dealership for them, they should know what it is without a part #. The foam in a standard seat will need to be cut, and sewing will have to be done, but it’s an easy job. Headlight bezel plugs There are 1-1/2" plugs that are located on the headlight bezels that would fall off on the older Vette's. The new style plugs, have a twist-lock to prevent them from falling out, but also requires new bezels. Only the new bezels & plugs are available now, and they are compatible with older C5’s. Headlight gears The gears in the headlight motor are plastic, and wear out over time. Ice, heavy Euro or projector headlights and twilight sentinal will cause the gears to wear out quickly. Fortunately a few years ago, Rodney started selling replacement brass gears, check out his website. Corvette America and probably a few other vendors now sell their own copy of his brass gears. Here’s a thread that shows how to replace the gears. Replacement nylon gears are also available from Motormite Help!, part #42400 for $10-13. Src To replace:
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Torque Settings All Data Diy Headlamp Mounting Bolts 20 N.m (15 lb ft) Headlamp Mounting Nuts 10 N.m (89 lb in) Headlamp Bezel Retaining Screws 1.9 N.m (17 lb in) Headlamp Capsule Retaining Screws 3.5 N.m (31 lb in) Headlamp Intermediate Bracket Screws 1.9 N.m (17 lb in) Headlamp Opening Door Screws 1.9 N.m (17 lb in) Roof noises If you buy a coupe with a removable roof, you can expect wind noise and some creaking. The wind noise will never totally go away, but if there's creaking, you can eliminate that by thinly applying dielectric silicone grease to the weather-stripping. It also prevents cracking, so do this to all weather-stripping, on any car. Also, the plastic beneath the roll-hoop may hang low and rattle against the attachment points of the roof. A dremel with the drum sander attachment quickly provides the clearance to eliminate the rattle. Hood rattles During cold weather the rubber hood stops can also rub and rattle against the hood. Adjust and lubricate the rubber stops so when you pull the corner of the hood up, it doesn’t pull up, but the hood still closes. Drivetrain rattling The valvetrain makes a significant amount of noise at idle. It may sound like sewing machine. Converting the valve rockers to true shaft-mounted adjustable roller rockers with may help eliminate the valvetrain noise if adjusted properly. Installing a big cam and stiffer valve springs will make the noise louder. On manual transmission cars (M6 or M12), the transmission sounds like it is rattling when leaving the line. It is normal. It is the clutch throwout bearing rattling around. Sometimes you'll hear a horrible rattle if you shut off the engine. If you press the clutch pedal in while shutting off the car, you won't hear it. Shaky braking The front brake rotors warp easily under heavy braking…or at least that’s what uneducated drivers think. I tend to believe StopTech: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm I verified this by lightly grinding my rotors with steel wool. Garnet paper is recommended, but I haven’t tried it. If you insist the problem is warping, don’t turn the rotors since thinner rotors warp more easily. Resurfacing the rotors is only a temporary fix, one that is less effective each time your resurface the rotors due to the reduced thermal capacity of the rotors. Rotors are available for $25 at Napa and RockAuto.
This parking brake can present when the rear rotor is taken apart. I
have an ongoing problem with my right parking brake. After leaving the
parking brake on for a prolonged period, or during very cold weather, the
parking brake tends to drag and cause a squeek once per revolution of the
wheel. After driving for a few hundred feet, the sound usually goes
away. Sometimes backing up and pulling the e-brake can make it go away
immediately. That procedure is supposed reset the e-brake, but I don't
know why it occasionally and temporarily fixes the problem. Here's a
diagram:
 Scraped front ends and rocker panels Checking for scrapes is an easy way to tell if the car was treated well. It's almost impossible not to scrape the front end, but there are two metal crash bar loops that should prevent the bumper from scraping. The bumper itself should not have scrape marks on it. Check the underside of the tip of the bumper, and the bottom corners of the bumper. If the crash bar gets scraped enough, eventually it will wear down to the point where it needs to get replaced. It costs about $220 for the crash bar, nut-serts, bolts and insulators, and can be replaced in a couple of hours, just be sure to hook the hoses and electric connector back to the A.I.R. pump. Here’s a list of ALL the parts you’ll need to replace the impact bar and the side air deflectors: Part #------Qty---Description 10188023---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator) 10278679---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator) 10278679---005---Nut 10400765---001---Plate (the actual impact bar, unpainted) 10419312---001---Panel (air deflector) 10419313---001---Panel (air deflector) 11515638---010---Nut-speci 11515757---010---Bolt-Metr 10281487---010---Nut Not all of these parts need to get replaced, and there will be a few leftovers, but it will get the job done. The rocker panels tend to get scraped on lifts and big speed bumps. A & A Corvettes invented two products to prevent damage from both kinds of scraping. They have wheels that attach to the crash bar, allowing the car to roll on driveways instead of wearing down the crash bar. It will still scrape the spoiler, but the spoiler is a cheap wear item that takes only 2 minutes to replace without a lift or jack. They also make two aluminum strips that attached the frame next to the rocker panels, and they take the scrapes themselves instead of the rockers panels. Neither of the devices are visible unless looking under the car, and they are discreet enough to possibly be missed anyway. If you see these devices installed, you can be pretty sure the owner took good care of the car. Without this extra protection, you can expect to replace the crash bar and repair the rockers several times over the life of the car. WARNING: It won’t stop all scraping damage, just reduce the possibility of it happening, and reduce the damage when it does happen. Low hanging headers will probably still scrape. Hood seal weatherstrip The sides and back of the hood compartment have weather-strip installed from the factory. The front is left open. Many owners install weather-strip along this front edge. You may not even notice it since it looks identical to rest of the weather-stripping. This extra weather-strip helps keep the engine compartment clean, and may also help the air intake system work better. This is another sign that the owner took good care of the car. The engine compartment stays pretty clean, but this the "extra step". A/C System There are two kinds of climate controls. One is manual with knobs, and the other is a dual-zone electronic system. The dual-zone system did cost more, but is not as reliable as the manual system. A leaking battery can affect both systems; a symptom is when the vents cannot be switched. Over time, and especially in humid climates, condensation can leak onto the passenger side carpet. There are 3 udders under the driver’s side cowl, and behind the battery. There are slits on the bottom--vigorously squeeze and massage the udders until free of debris. If the vent settings cannot be changed, the vacuum line is probably loose, clogged or broken. Read more! Squeaky steering wheel When you turn the steering wheel, you may hear a squeak. It's just the plastic surfaces rubbing against each other. A shot of lubricant fixes this. Squeaky/chirping/grinding wheel bearings Drive slowly, better yet, coast along at low speeds with the windows open in a quiet location. Listen for a squeak from the wheels. Try turning in different directions. If you hear the rear wheels squeaking, you may have a worn wheel bearing. A replacement bearing costs $600 list, but you can usually find it for $400-450. I've heard that AutoZone has a better replacement for $126 by a company named Timken. The part is easy to replace if you can separate the ball joints; I bought the Kent-Moore tool to do mine. The problem may persist safely for a few months, but eventually will become annoying. It seems to be a common problem, and more so for the rear wheel bearing. I've never heard of it happening twice to the same car, so if you fix it once, you're probably good for life. Several racers replace their wheel bearings every year.
Here's the Kent-More ball joint breaker:
 A broken emergency drum clip may cause a false diagnosis. See the section on the parking brakes, and be careful when removing & replacing the rear rotors. Oil woes Many late 2000 thru 2001 Vette's burn a lot of oil when the engine is kept constantly over 4,000 rpm's. This is caused by ring flutter, which allows extra oil to seep past the oil control rings, but doesn't seem to cause any extra wear to the engine. Chevrolet has rebuilt and replaced engines for owners that complained about excessive oil consumption. Their policy is that while the engine isn't normally operated like that outside of racing, it is the owner's prerogative to drive around in second gear all the time if they want to. It is covered under the warranty. The PCV system also has a tendency to suck oil back into the intake at high rpm's. It doesn't seem to cause any problems, other than a slight mess inside the intake manifold. The newer style PCV system can be installed, but this requires removing all the components in the top of the engine valley. Usually only racer's bother with the hassle. Several generations of PCV systems have had the problem, and at this time, December 2004, the PCV system still sucks oil into the intake. The oil-sucking problem will cause carbon buildup in the cylinders. The dealership sells GM Top End Cleaner, and Napa sells SeaFoam. The Top End Cleaner is not available in some smog states like California. Run a tube from the bottle into the hole for the PCV system behind the throttle body on the passenger side. Start the car, then start slowly sucking the solution into the engine. Don’t go too fast or the engine could lockup. As soon as the solution is gone, stop the motor for >4 hours, but preferably 12 hours. Be aware that when the engine is restarted, there will be a LOT of smoke! The oil-sucking can be prevented by installing a catch can. AMW and Greddy make catch cans, but a homebuilt catch can may be built using a Campbell-Hausfield air tool oil separator from most tool stores, including AutoZone. The AMW and Greddy cans are ~$100, but look great. The CH can is $15-25 for all the parts, and you can see how much oil is in it. Overheating & burning smells Even though the engine can heat up to 220, even 240 degrees Fahrenheit, this is normal. The radiator will keep the engine cool enough unless the radiator is blocked. Reprogramming the PCM can allow the fans to turn on earlier. If the fans also cool an aftermarket oil cooler, make sure the oil occasionally gets to 220 degrees to allow condensation and fuel to evaporate away. Fan settings and oil thermostats are two different ways to do this. It's not uncommon for plastic bags to get sucked up under the front bumper, and cover the radiator, thus causing the car to truly overheat. If this happens, take a quick peek under the bumper, and remove anything under there. Sometimes bags get stuck to the exhaust pipes too, causing quite a stench as they burn away. If an aftermarket oil cooler is installed, take extra care to keep the oil lines away from the exhaust pipes. They may last for years before failing, but they will eventually fail. The best protection is space, and for extra insurance, put heat wrap around the oil lines and ceramic coat the exhaust pipes. Locked steering column All C5’s, particularly manual transmission C5’s, and early C6 steering columns have a tendency to lock and stay locked. Usually it can be unlocked once, but just once. Some owners claim that vigorously shaking the steering wheel can unlock the steering wheel. Dealer's are able to disable the locking mechanism with a modified locking plate. Currently this is the only real method to disable the locking mechanism. Basically the wheel will still try to lock, but there will be nothing for it to lock to. It’s like a door dead bolt with a slot cut into the door jamb. There is a $100 kit that disables the steering column lock, and can be installed easily, but enough car vibrations can cause the lock to fall into the locking plate, even while driving! GM has a part (#88952428 or 88952428) that has a harness wiring jumper and different lock plate. Not sure what the difference in the kits are. After reading a few posts, manual transmission C5’s & C6’s are still in danger, even if the lock is disabled. The lock can vibrate out over time and get trapped in the locking plate. Auto transmission cars that have undergone the recall and new auto’s will not have the locking plate at all, so they are safe. More information about COMPLETELY disabling the steering column lock will be forthcoming from other’s on the forum, and by my own personal project. Until then, here are a few links about the topic: Column Lock Harness K Installation A4 non locking column plate --- must be a member Column-lock again even with CLB! Has anyone ELSE beat column lock? Faulty gas gauge If you have bad gas (phew!), the fuel sender can be affected by the high sulfur content in the fuel, and cause the gauge to read empty. They car will still operate normally, and the gas gauge will work again if you use better gas, and will usually start again when you restart the car. It's just better to use good gas. Some people have had luck with running fuel filter cleaners thru the gas tank. New fuel senders sometimes fixes this problem. This thread has a LOT of ideas about what could be causing the problems, how to avoid problems, and how to fix it. It also points out how the late C5 fuel tanks and crossover tube is different. Noisy fuel pump There are two fuel tanks, and two fuel pumps. One fuel pump continually pumps gas from the passenger side tank into the driver side tank, and is quiet. The main fuel pump is directly behind the drivers seat, and can be annoying loud, especially on early C5’s. It's normal, and not a sign of a failing fuel pump. Chevrolet does have a bulletin out instructing how to better insulate against the sound of the fuel pump. This is merely an annoyance. A newer, quieter pump can also be installed. Extremely high oil pressure reading The oil pressure sensor can fail, but it is still okay to drive. Turn the car off, but with the key in the “on” position and check the oil pressure gauge. It should read “0”. If the oil pressure sensor is bad, it will show a positive reading. The oil pressure sender is located behind the intake manifold, and will require moving the intake manifold. The sender costs about $40 and part # 12573107 or 12562230. How-to Suspension squeaking In cold weather you may hear the suspension creak when you go over speed bumps. To fix this, clean (optional) and lubricate the sway bar bushings. The adjustable metal sway bar end links on Hotchkis and T1 bars can also create loud clicking sounds. Double check the alignment. The goal is to get the "eyes" as centered as possible on both ends of the endlink as the suspension moves.
Notice how in the picture below teh "eyes" are aligned? This
configuration "clicked" on the front swaybar until I lengthened the endlinks a
few rounds and rotated one end of the link by ~25 degrees.
Most adjustable end links are quiet initially, but wear out and get noisy over
time. Greasing and protecting the end links from dirt may prevent wear.
I've installed zerk grease fittings to make it possible to grease the swaybar
bushings without having to remove them.
Tough shifting The shifter in manually shifted Corvette's takes a strong arm to get it into gear. You really have to make sure that the shifter is fully in 1st and Reverse, or it will pop out of gear when you let the clutch out. This is not the fault of the car, but the fault of the driver. Manual transmissions -- Replacing the transmission fluid often helps shifting. Early transmissions have paper blocker ring that require Dexron III compatible (usually organic) fluid because some synthetics will destroy the paper blocker rings and subsequently the transmission. Later transmissions, and all rebuilt transmissions, have Kevlar/carbon fiber parts that allow the use of synthetic fluids. I believe the 98-00 transmissions have the paper blocker rings. The safe transmission fluids seem to be: GM Synchromesh PN #12345349, Honda ATF-Z1, Royal Purple Synchromax, Amsoil ATF, O’Reilly Dexron III ATF. The following transmission fluids may be unsafe for early transmissions: Redline D4 ATF, Mobil 1 ATF, Royal Purple Max ATF. Related threads: LS1.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail? LS1Tech.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail? Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for a M6? If it is especially tough to shift into 2nd or 4th gear, it's possible that the synchro's are worn out or the forks are bent. Do NOT force it into gear. Abuse creates and aggravates this problem. You can still drive, even quite well, without synchro's....or a clutch for that matter if you know how to rev match. Some aftermarket shifters make it easier to make sure you're fully in gear, and prevent gear grinding, but they also vibrate, and require more effort to shift. The stock shifter has a tuned weight damper that changes the vibrations to a non-audible frequency. The shaking doesn’t annoy some people, and there are some fixes. Leaky butt The differential can leak from the side covers. The problem has to do with the design. The lip on the casing is not wide enough to create a proper seal with the cover. Resealing the covers can be successful, but many dealers do not use the correct sealant. Inside/outside tire spinning If one tire spins while turning, adjust the friction modifier ratio. Aftermarket gear fluid from Royal Purple, Amsoil and Redline do not require additional friction modifier. GM’s friction modifier is PN #12377916. Too much friction modifier and the inside tire will spin/skip/hop. Too little friction modifier and the outside tire will spin/skip/hop. -- Thanks Russ! Tire hop Tire hop during hard acceleration in cold weather is common, even if the same tires don’t hop in warmer weather. Tire rubber when viewed thru a microscope looks like a web. Normally parts of this web grabs onto objects on the ground and stretch until either the car moves forward, or the web breaks, resulting in tire spin. I believe in cold weather, the web is too stiff for either of these events to occur, so the tires hop. To find out more, read Racing & High Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip and Balance. I haven’t read it, but if you do, please let me know if my guess is correct. I found a couple stories on Google about people curing wheel hop with stiffer bushings and/or (jounce) shocks. Interior rattles The visors may rattle when they are put up, but if you flip them down, the rattle goes away. Squeezing the mirror lid down seems to take care of it. Try glueing a piece of felt or velcro between the mirror and lid to see if that fixes it. Caravaggio also makes replacement leather visors, but they go for $400. The stereo is Bose, and to go along with the historically crappy build quality of Bose products, Bose has graced the Corvette with Bose emblems on the door speaker covers that rattle when you play music with bass. A Bose system doesn't exist that puts out good bass, but the system still manages to rattle the emblems when playing Country, Hip Hop, or Techno at moderate volumes. Check this problem by having a passenger and yourself putting a finger on the emblems with music playing. Glue the emblems down to fix it. If the roof isn't tightened down enough, it will rattle. There are some adjustment screws in the roof to make this adjustment. Belt Chirping During cold weather, the belt can chirp. Goodyear Gatorback belts from AutoZone don’t chirp. Sticky Hatch During cold weather, the hatch may pop up slowly, or not at all. Spray the latches with silicone grease until they come up properly. If the struts do not hold up the hatch, try lubing the strut bars. 1997: Service Bulletin: Hatch Will Not Pop Up When Activated in Cold Weather Rocker failure The needle bearings in the OEM rockers have been known to fail. Usually the problem is noticed with extra valvetrain noise and needle bearings stuck to a magnetic oil plug. Nasty Performance will rebuild OEM rockers with Harland Sharp bearings. This seems to be one of the better solutions since the stock rocker is very good at high rpms. Most aftermarket rockers are nose heavy and require grinding the heads and valve covers to fit. Currently Harland Sharp rockers are having problems with c-clip retainers falling off and causing problems on the way. I’ll be following this issue since I have a set of HS rockers on my shelf waiting for this issue to be resolved. Here are some links: LS1Tech - EMERGENCY!! ROCKERS! Help ASAP! LS1Tech - Harland Sharp Rocker Failure LS1Tech - Install or not install HS rockers? 1998-2002: Service Bulletin: Needle Bearings Found In Oil Pan (Replace Rocker Arms) Other Information Active Stability Control This allows you to keep some control of the car even when you do really stupid stunts. It doesn't bend the laws of physics, but will keep the car pointed where you are steering; you may still slide off the road, but at least the car will be pointed in the direction you were steering! One of the sensors is located around the passenger seat, and needs to be considered when installing a racing bucket. If you move that sensor, Active Stability will not know how to balance the car, and can be very dangerous. Active Stability came out around '99. Jacking The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden ramps....rhino ramps are too steep. Key Fobs There are basically two different kinds of key fobs, and they are not compatible with each other. 97-00, but 00 does not have the Passive Lock feature 01-04 Both remotes use a CR2450 coin type battery. I found replacement batteries at Office Depot. To replace, use a coin to wedge between the seam, and twist. Ref: Service manual, page 8-747.
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Spark plugs The OEM platinum plugs, along with other plugs have had problems with the pucks falling off. I have a picture of missing pucks in this thread. This thread outlines some of the problems with using platinum, and a recommendation for using silver tipped plugs by Beru. Basically, of all spark plug tips, platinum is the worst conductor, copper is good, iridium is even better and silver is the best. Don’t take my word for it, do a little research, starting with this review. As for longevity, platinum, iridium and silver do have an advantage over copper, but plugs foul up after ~10K miles, negating any difference corrosion would cause, and no plug will run well after 100K miles. The best way to go for most people are inexpensive TR-55 copper spark plugs. To make the spark plugs easier to change, get the Snap-On double-swivel sparkplug tool and remove the coil packs. Here’s all you need to know about sparkplug changes: Go! Alternator Replacement ’98 AC Delco part #10246634
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These problems, and many others, are addressed at the
www.corvetteactioncenter.com
in the Tech Center -> Knowledge Base.
While these problems do sound numerous and severe, just remember that JD Power considers this a very reliable car. If you buy a Corvette, consider yourself fortunate that there are many reSrcs available to help you locate and correct problems.
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Power
First you need to know how your car is doing. A trip to the dyno can give you quick answers. Tuning software can diagnose and tune your car. LS1Tech and HPTuners are two popular tuning packages. At some point in the future, both packages will be able to do scanning with incorporated wideband sensor support. At this time, December 2004, only HPTuners can do both. Popular upgrades: Cold air intakes: Vararam, Halltech, Blackwing, zip-tie Intake manifolds: LS6, LS2, LSX, Wiend, sheetmetal Cat-back exhausts: B&B, Borla, Z06 Ti, Corsa Long tube headers: LG, Kooks, TPIS, Stainless Works, Breathless, Jet-Hot, GHL, QTP Superchargers: ATI (go to A&A), Vortech, Magnacharger Turbochargers Stroke & bore Head & cam packages: TEA, AFR, TSP, Patriot, Cartek Tires: Kumho Ecsta MX, Nitto Extreme RII
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Aerodynamics, gearing and top speed
The hardtops and Z06 have shorter rear windows, are less aerodynamic, noisier, and weigh less than the standard C5 couple like mine. Even though the Z06 has more hp than standard C5’s, they have a lower top speed than manual Z51 C5 coupes. This is due to both aerodynamics and gearing. All C5’s top out at redline in 5th gear, so a taller 5th gear, or much shorter 6th gear, or taller redline is required to go faster. All else being equal, a Z51 coupe will still go faster than a Z06.
Above 175 mph, the aerodynamic limits of the C5 are nearly reached, and the
car starts to become unstable. Air builds up under the front of the car,
and with no real place to escape, front end lift occurs, making it difficult
to keep the car in a smooth straight line, especially if the road has the
slightest waviness. This can be solved with a vented hood like the ACP C5-R or
MCM vented hoods. The ACP and Motor City hoods both have a center vent,
but the ACP also have vents above the wheel wells, which if used, would reduce
lift further, and allow greater cooling for the brakes.
Weight reduction You can achieve substantial weight reduction with the following modifications, while still having a car that's very comfortable to drive. Most of these modifications will directly increase (and decrease in a few cases) the safety of the car, while safety is indirectly improved due to the better handling and limits of a lighter car. Fighter pilots say "speed is life". Acceleration, deceleration, and lateral acceleration are all forms of acceleration, and lighter cars accelerate better in each of these ways because the tires have less mass to control....thus a lighter car is a safer car. Lighter cars have better moments of inertia which allows them to turn in more easily and roll less. Lighter cars are also easier on the tires and gas. All the stage weight estimates are typically wild butt guesses, but it makes it easy to see what is possible. The weight listings in the separate weight posting is MUCH more reliable. Stage I: Streetable weight reduction mods Non-popup headlights (~40 lbs) Brake rotors with an aluminum hat, or titanium rotors (unproven on street cars) (~20-30 lbs) Carbon fiber hood (~12 lbs) Z06 (thinner) windshield and side windows (~5.7 lbs) Non runflat tires (~20 lbs) Slicks (~30 lbs) Z06 wheels (~4 lbs est.) Corsa titanium exhaust (~35 lbs) Long tube headers (~20 lbs) Halltech aluminum alternator & bracket (10 lbs) Carbon fiber driveshaft (~2 lbs) Newer torque tube Less options [HUD, elec AC, Active Stability, seat/mirror/steering wheel memory, cd changer] (~50 lbs) Less gasoline & wiper fluid (No wiper fluid=9lbs, 6 lbs for every gallon of gas in that 18 gallon tank....~81 lbs for autocrossing) Remove cargo net targa top (~20 lbs) BCM’s C5 "appearance mods" - exhaust plates, doorsill covers, etc. fuel rail covers all loose change, CD's, golf clubs, misc. items, from center console, hatch area, and glove box Replace stock crank pulley with aluminum aftermarket pulley steel dampener with aluminum dampener stock targa top with lexan piece (coupes) water pump with electric water pump battery with smaller "race" battery non-stressed fasteners with aluminum or titanium fasteners leaf springs with coilovers that have aluminum bodied shocks and titanium springs steel shifter with aluminum shifter and delrin or titanium shift knob Empty your pockets of extra change, PDA's, cell phones, keys, lead plates, or whatever other junk you lug around Go on a diet =p Stage II: Hardcore semi-streetable weight reduction mods Aluminum flywheel (~10 lbs) Lighter clutch like Exedy or Quartermaster (~10 lbs) Racing buckets (40-50 lbs) Off-road x-pipe (10 lbs) Replace stock hood, fenders, doors, roof, hatch and bumpers with aftermarket carbon fiber pieces Remove Tire repair kit (Z06) Floor mats Fog lights Stage III: Track only weight reduction mods Racing steering wheel & delete both airbags (~30 lbs, but get a 4-6 point harness) Use unpadded aluminum or carbon fiber steering wheel Run open headers Replace stock front and rear glass with polycarbonate “glass” Rebuild motor with Al or Ti connecting rods, Ti valve spring retainers and pushrods Port the heads Replace valve covers with magnesium or carbon fiber parts Strip entire car, acid wash chassis, put car back together. Remove Column locking hardware Interior – passenger seat, carpets, speaker panels, head liner, dash, center console, glove box, door panels, sun visors, rear view mirror, insulation, etc. A/C Compressor A/C controls and ducting AIR pump system Factory radio, speakers, and/or CD changer, and unnecessary wiring HUD projector Windshield wiper fluid reservoir and pump Windshield wipers and motors Stock cat back Power steering pump Front sway bar (drag only) ABS, TC, AH hardware and sensors (drag only) Fender wells Headlight assembly, turn signals, taillights and reflectors Shave side mirrors Torque tunnel cover OEM seat belts Parking brake Side windows and motors Power locks and power windows Side impact beams Casting flash from engine, then polish Reducing unsprung weight—not all is streetable Forged 1-piece wheels Use 3-piece wheels by Jongbloed, Kodiak, CCW, BBS Carbon fiber wheels with magnesium or titanium hub Skinny front wheels (drag only) Ti fasteners on 3-piece wheels (~1 lbs per wheel) Lighter non-runflat tires, or even track only synthetic corded slicks Lighter calipers 2-piece, unvented or titanium rotors Titanium wheel studs Aluminum or titanium lug nuts Remove tire pressure sensors Remove rubber valve stem cap Balance the wheels without tires or balancing weights, and then mount tires Great literature for hardcore techies Helm’s Service Manual --- this should come with every Corvette IMHO Key Design Developments of the 1997 Chevrolet Corvette (SAE SP-1282) GM eSI Techline Service Manual Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook, Carroll Smith Drive to Win, Carroll Smith: The Essential Guide to Race Driving Engineer to Win: The Essential Guide to Racing Car Materials Technology or How to Build Winners Which Don’t Break, Carroll Smith Tune to Win, Carroll Smith Fiberglass & Composite Materials: An Enthusiast’s Guide to High Performance Non-Metallic Materials for Automotive Racing and Marine Use How to Make Your Car Handle, Fred Puhn Race Car Vehicle Dynamics (SAE R146) Racing & High Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip and Balance (SAE R351) Physics of Racing
C5 Suspension Swaybars 18.5 lbs - T1 front anti-swaybar w/OEM adjustable endlinks & bushings - Src 8.5 oz - T1 OEM adjustable endlink - Src 3 oz - T1 OEM (endlink) bolt, nut and spacers - Src 5 oz - T1 OEM rear bushings (2) - Src 4.1 lbs - Z51 rear anti-swaybar w/OEM bushings - Src 3.6 lbs - Z51 rear anti-swaybar - Src 4.5 oz - Z51 rear OEM bushings (2) - Src 18.5 oz - Z51 OEM endlinks (2) - Src 9.5 oz - QA-1 endlinks - Src 6.5 oz - Lowe's 1/2" hole, 1.5 mm (avg) thick, 2" diameter (8) - Src 4 oz - Lowe's 1/2" hole, 2.25 mm (avg) thick, 3.5 cm diameter (8) - Src Rotors 4.8 lbs - ZMI titanium ---Src 14 lb - rear left brake rotor from Napa, made in Canada, part# 86702 - Src 14 lb, 4 oz - rear right brake rotor from Napa, made in Canada, part# 86703 - Src 18 lb, 14 oz - front right brake rotor from Napa, made in USA, part# 86700 - Src 18 lb, 10 oz - front left brake rotor from Napa, made in Canada, part# 86701 - Src Calipers 5.8 lbs - ZMI - Src 1/2 oz - single Speedbleeder - Src Pads 1 lb, 2 oz - PFC Z-rated brake pads, single side, rear, without shim - Src 1/2 oz - PFC brake pad rear shim, single side - Src 2 lb, 5 oz - PFC Z-rated brake pads, single side, front, without shims - Src 3 oz - PFC brake pad front shims (2), single side - Src Wheels 19.2 lbs, front; 21.4 lbs, rear - 97-99 OEM wagon - Src 22 lbs, front; 29 lbs, rear - 97-99 OEM wagon - Src 17 lbs, front; 19.5 lbs rear - 97-00 OEM magnesium - Src 17.5 lbs, front; 19.5 lbs, rear - 97-00 OEM magnesium - Src 18.08 lbs, front; 20.06 rear - 00 OEM standard, thin spoke, high polish - Src 17 lbs, front; 20 lbs, rear - 00 OEM standard, thin spoke, painted, no sensors or centercaps - Src 16 lbs, front; 20 lbs, rear - 01 OEM standard high polish - Src 19.6 lbs, front; 21.4 lbs, rear - 01 Z06 forged - Src 19.2 lbs, front; 21 lbs, rear - 02-04 Z06 cast/spun - Src, Src 24 lbs, 18x10.5 - 00+ repro high polish - Src 28 lbs, front; 32 lbs, rear - Z06 chrome repro - Src 23 lbs, front; 26 lbs, rear - Z06 chrome repro - Src 23.5 lbs, front; 24.5 lbs, rear - Z06 Motorsports, polished - Src 20 lbs, 17x8.5, 58mm offset, front; 23 lbs, 18x9.5, 65mm offset, rear - PWO - Src 22 lbs, 18x10.5, 58mm offset, front - HRE 545 w/clear center - Src 27 lbs, 18x12, 74mm offset, rear - HRE 545 w/clear center - Src 24/25 lbs - Z07 wheel weight, front - Src 28 lbs - Z07 wheel weight, rear - Src Lugnuts 1.5 oz - OEM open lugnut - Src Tires NOTE: Kumho tires are not currently differentiated between runflat and nonrunflat tires. 29.5 lbs, front; 32.5 lbs, rear - Goodyear EMT, stock size - Src 27 lbs, front; 33 lbs, rear - Bridgestone S03's, stock size - Src 26.4 lbs - Goodyear GS-C 275/40R17 - Src 12 lbs, 275/40x17; 15 lbs, 315/35x17; 16 lbs, 305/30x18 - Hoosier A3S03 - Src 28 lbs, 275/40x17=28lbs; 30.5 lbs, 315/35x17 - Goodyear ZR "S" Rains - Src 25 lbs, 275/40x17; 28 lbs, 315/35x17 (shaved to 6/32") - Goodyear GS CS - Src 23lbs, 265/40x17; 24.5 lbs, 275/40x18; 25.5 lbs, 295/35x18 - Goodyear F1 GS CS - Src 27 lbs, 265/40R18; 28 lbs, 315/40R18 - Goodyear GS F1 SC - Src 25 lbs, 255/40R17 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 27 lbs, 275/40R18 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 29 lbs, 285/30R18 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 30 lbs, 285/30R18 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 30 lbs, 295/30R18 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 29 lbs, 295/35R18 - Bridgestone Potenza S02 - Src 28 lbs, 245/45R17 - Kumho Ecsta 711 - Src 29 lbs, 245/45R17 - Kumho Ecsta Supra - Src 32 lbs, 245/45R17 - Kumho Ecsta MX - Src 26 lbs, 245/45R17 - Kumho Ecsta Victoracer V700 - Src 30 lbs, 265/40R17 - Kumho Ecsta Supra - Src 20 lbs, 275/40R17 - Kumho Ecsta MX - Src 36 lbs, 275/40R17 - Kumho Ecsta MX - Src 25 lbs, 285/30R18 - Kumho Ecsta V700 - Src TBD lbs, 295/35R18 - Kumho Ecsta ASX - Src 30 lbs, 295/35R18 - Kumho Ecsta Supra - Src 20 lbs, 275/35R18 - Kumho Ecsta MX - Src 31 lbs, 295/35R18 - Kumho Ecsta MX - Src 26 lbs, 305/30R18 - Kumho Ecsta V700 - Src 28 lbs, 315/35R18 - Kumho Ecsta V710 - Src 30 lbs, 335/30R18 - Kumho Ecsta V700 - Src Tire Rack Kumho ECSTA ASX Specs 245/45WR17 27 lbs 275/40WR18 30 lbs UTQG: 420 AA A Avon Tech M550 A/S Specs 245/45WR17 29 lbs 275/40WR18 34 lbs UTQG: 360 AA A Avon Tech M500 Specs 245/45WR17 28 lbs 275/40WR18 32 lbs UTQG: 280 AA A Continental ContiExtremeContact Specs 245/45WR17 24 lbs 275/40WR18 25 lbs UTQG: 400 AA A Kumho ECSTA MX Specs 245/45YR17 25 lbs 275/40YR18 29 lbs UTQG: 220 AA A Pirelli PZero Nero M&S Specs 245/45WR17 24 lbs 275/40WR18 29 lbs UTQG: 400 AA A (front), 400 A A (rear) BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW Specs 245/45YR17 28 lbs 275/40YR18 32 lbs UTQG: 300 AA A Goodyear Eagle F1 GS Specs 245/45YR17 25 lbs 275/40YR18 28 lbs UTQG: 300 AA A Kumho ECSTA MX (runflat) Specs 245/45YR17 32 lbs 275/40YR18 35 lbs UTQG: 220 AA A Continental ContiSportContact 2 Specs 245/45YR17 25 lbs 275/40YR18 26 lbs UTQG: 280 AA A Dunlop SP Sport 9000 Specs 245/45WR17 26 lbs 275/40WR18 29 lbs UTQG: 280 A A BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD Specs 245/45YR17 27 lbs 275/40YR18 31 lbs UTQG: 200 AA A Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Specs 245/45YR17 25 lbs 275/40YR18 28 lbs UTQG: 280 AA A Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 Specs 245/45WR17 26 lbs 275/40WR18 30 lbs UTQG: 300 A A Bridgestone Potenza RE050 Specs 245/45WR17 26 lbs 275/40YR18 28 lbs UTQG: 140 A A Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position Specs 245/45YR17 28 lbs 275/40YR18 34 lbs UTQG: 220 AA A Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar Specs 245/45YR17 24 lbs 275/40YR18 27 lbs UTQG: 220 AA A Wheel & Tire combined weight 45 lbs, front - 97-00 OEM magnesium w/Nitto 275/40-17 (1/2 tread) - Src 50 lbs, rear - 97-00 OEM magnesium w/Yoko 295/35-18 AVS Sport non-runflats - Src 47 lbs, front - 97-00 OEM magnesium w/OEM 245/45-17 runflats - Src 53 lbs, rear - 97-00 OEM magnesium w/OEM 275/40-18 runflats - Src 50 lbs, 17x8.5, 58mm offset, front - PWO w/OEM 245/45-17 runflats (1/2 tread) - Src 51 lbs - '06 C6Z GM Stock Wheel/Tire Combo, front - Src 56 lbs - '06 C6Z GM Stock Wheel/Tire Combo, rear - Src C6 Suspension Z51 rotors Estimates based on information above and http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=880807 17 lb, 14 oz - front rotor 24 lb, 16 oz - rear rotor Drivetrain Clutch/Flywheel 23.3 lbs - O.E. iron flywheel - Src 44.8 lbs - O.E. flywheel/clutch assembly - Src 49 lbs - Z06 clutch/flywheel assembly - Src 42.8 lbs - Z06 stock - Src 36.7 lbs - Exedy Single Disk - Src 36.7 lbs - Exedy Dual Disk - Src 12.4 lbs - Fidanza flywheel - Src 33.9 lbs - Fidanza flywheel & SPEC clutch assembly - Src 14 lbs - Quartermaster 5.5" 3-disc clutch/flywheel/hardware - Src 115-129 lbs - T56 transmission, TUET1806 - Src 21 lbs - DTE A4 Differential Strut Kit, Stage I - Src Motor & accessories 457.6 lbs, LS1 auto; 497.2 lbs, LS1/LS6 manual - LS1/LS6 dressed - Src 443 lbs - LS2 dressed - Src ~600 oz - LS1/LS6 connecting rods - Src 434 gm - LS1/LS6 piston - Src 76 gm, intake; 63 gm, exhaust - '02 LS6 valves - Src 99 gm, intake; 86 gm, exhaust - LS1 valves - Src 11.2 gm - LS1/LS6 retainer - Src 7.2 gm - Comp Ti retainer - Src 15 lbs - A.I.R. system & plumbing - Src 30 lbs - AC/condenser/lines/oil holder/brackets/pulleys - Src 10-3/4 oz - airbridge - Src 1 lb, 14 oz - radiator top cover with screws (x4) - Src 1 lb, 12 oz - fuel rail covers - Src 16 lbs - P1SC head unit - Src 14 lbs - A&A single intercooler - Src 8 oz -- Headlight relay 2.5 oz -- OEM air filter clip/band x2 6 oz -- Serpentine belt OEM 4.25 lbs -- OEM LS1 air filter assembly without any clamps of any sort 10.5 oz -- OEM LS1 air bridge 2.1 oz -- Timing belt cover 92.5 lbs - GEN III V8 (LS1) Aluminum block - GM Manual, JRP's SuperFAQ 210.4 lbs - GEN III V8 (LS1) Cast Gray Iron Block - GM Manual, JRP's SuperFAQ 18.9 lbs - GEN III V8 (LS1) Aluminum head - GM Manual, JRP's SuperFAQ 43.2 lbs - GEN III V8 (LS1) Iron head - GM Manual, JRP's SuperFAQ 13.45 lbs - LS1 water pump - Src 10.25 lbs - LS2 water pump - Src 15.5 oz - LS1 piston - Src 480 gm - LS7 titanium connecting rod - Src ~685 gm - LS2 connecting rod - Src 76 gm - LS7 intake valve (2.200) - Src 71 gm - LS7 exhaust valve (1.600) - Src
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Batteries 13 lbs - Odyssey/Dynabatt/Hawker racing battery - Src 13.5 lbs - Genesis G16EP, LWH=7.15x3.01x6.65, CC=280 - Src 15 lbs - PC 680, LWH=7.27x3.12x6.67, CC=280 - Src 23 lbs - SVR SVR28-12, LWH=6.88x6.50x4.88 - Src 23 lbs - Genesis G26EP, LWH=6.57x6.92x4.96, CC=470 - Src 26 lbs - Odyssey PC 925, LWH=6.69x7.05x5.04, CC=470 - Src 26 lbs - SVR SVR33-12, LWH=7.75x5.00x7.25, CC=500 - Src 26 lbs - Optima Yellow Top 51, LWH=9.25x5.00x9.00, CC=500 - Src 32.8 lbs - AC Delco 75P-7YR, LWH=9.50x7.10x7.30, CC=550 - Src 32.9 lbs - Genesis G42EP, LWH=7.78x6.53x6.72, CC=630 - Src 35.4 lbs - Odyssey PC 1200, LWH=7.87x6.66x7.55, CC=630 - Src 33.1 lbs - Optima Red Top 75/35, LWH=9.31x6.81x7.63, CC=650 - Src 37.7 lbs - AC Delco 34P-7YR, LWH=10.3x6.80x7.80, CC=650 - Src 36 lbs - Exide Select Orbital 75, LWH=9.00x7.00x7.44, CC=690 - Src 38.8 lbs - Optima Red Top 34/78, LWH=10.0x6.88x7.81, CC=750 - Src 38 lbs - Exide Select Orbital 78, LWH=10.1x7.00x8.1, CC=770 - Src 45.6 lbs - AC Delco 65P-7YR, LWH=11.9x7.50x7.60, CC=800 - Src 57 lbs - SVR SVR80-12, LWH=10.6x6.50x6.25, CC=800 - Src 58.7 lbs - Odyssey PC 1700, LWH=13.02x6.62x7.68, CC=930 - Src Exhaust Headers with H-pipe unless noted otherwise 68 lbs - 97 stock double wall manifolds & h-pipe - Src 72.5 lbs - 02 cast iron manifolds with pup cats & h-pipe - Src 46 lbs - GHL 1-3/4" headers w/3" collectors & 3" Random Tech cats and x-pipe - Src 52 or 61 lbs - FLP LT's w/cats - Src 49 lbs - Kooks LT's w/high-flow cats - Src 48.5 lbs - LGM Pro LT's w/high-flow cats - Src 45.4 lbs - QTP LT's w/high-flow cats - Src 50 lbs - Stainless Works w/cats - Src 63 lbs - SuperMAXX LT's w/high-flow cats - Src Cat-back Exhaust 14 lbs per side - Z06 Ti - Src 13.5 lbs per side - Z06 Ti - Src 15-16 lbs per side - Z06 Ti - Src 17 lbs per side - Z06 Ti - Src 22 lbs per side - OEM steel - Src 24 lbs per side - OEM steel - Src 19 lbs - B&B PRT's - Src 19 lbs - Borla Stingers (2-tip) - Src 22 lbs - Borla Stingers (4-tip) - Src Universal Components 12.0 lbs - Random Tech X-pipe - Src 5.8 lbs - Random Tech left cat - Src 5.7 lbs - Random Tech right cat - Src 2.5 lbs - Dynatech clamps (4) - Src Body 9.0 lbs - Window glass (left) - Src 9.0 lbs - Window glass (right) - Src 36.09 lbs - C5 Windshield - Src 30.39 lbs - Z06 Windshield - Src, Src 3.0 lbs - Exterior rear view mirror (left) - Src 3.0 lbs - Exterior rear view mirror (right) - Src 6.2 lbs - Stock tunnel plate - Src 15.4 lbs - Elite Engineering 304 SS, 0.134" tunnel plate, uncoated - Src 9.4 lbs - Elite Engineering aluminum 1/4" tunnel plate, uncoated - Src 9.6 lbs - Elite Engineering aluminum 1/4" tunnel plate, coated - Src 14.6 lbs - Elite Engineering aluminum 3/8" tunnel plate, coated - Src 9.2 lbs - LAPD 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum Tunnel Heat/Insulator/Chassis Re-Enforcement Plate, coated - Src, Src 12.2 lbs - LAPD 3.8" 6061-T6 aluminum Tunnel Heat/Insulator/Chassis Re-Enforcement Plate, coated - Src, Src 12.7 lbs - VNM 304 SS BackBone, coated - Src, Src 1/2 oz - part# 11515757, crashbar bolt - Src 1/4 oz - part# 10281493, crashbar nutsert (big) - Src 1/2 oz - part# 10281487, crashbar nutsert (small) (x4) - Src 1/2 oz - part# 10#11515638, radiator/bumper nut-speci (x4) - Src 1/2 oz - part# 11513568, radiator/bumper screws (x3) - Src 1 lb, 14 oz - US headlight with bulbs - Src 3 lbs - Euro headlight with bulb 1 oz - front spring to subframe bolt - Src 502 lbs - C5 frame - Src 30.4 lbs - C5 Hood & substrate (no light) - Src 20.5 lbs - CE Hood (with substrate & light??) - Src 31.1 lbs - C5/Z06 Hood (with substrate & light??) - Src 14 lbs - Motor City 100% carbon fiber hood - Src 24 lbs - Motor City 50% carbon fiber, 50% fiberglass hood - Src 5.26 lbs - Stock 63mm driveshaft, part #12564457 - Src, Src 4.56 lbs - LG carbon fiber driveshaft - Src, Src 4.5 oz - Headlight surround 5 oz - Air dam - right side 20.22 lbs - C6 transparent roof - Src 20.90 lbs - C6 painted roof - Src 21.86 lbs - C5 painted roof - Src Interior 3.5 lbs - Driver side air bag - Src 8.5 lbs - Passenger air bag - Src 3.5 lbs - Driver side seatbelt - Src 4 lbs - Interior fan motor - Src 8 lbs - Front speakers - Src 18.0 lbs - HVAC (base under dash unit - Src 4.0 lbs - Blower motor (Heat/AC) - Src 2.0 lbs - HVAC plastic ducts - Src 4.0 lbs - Airbag/glove box aluminum support - Src 2.0 lbs - Aluminum center console support - Src 1.0 lbs - A/C control head - Src 2.0 lbs - Dash vent duct - Src 1.0 lbs - Knee bolster support (white foam) - Src 1.0 lbs - Bose radio amplifier box - Src 3.0 lbs - Radio, AM/FM/CD - Src 7.0 lbs - Door module, harness, regulator (left) - Src 7.0 lbs - Door module, harness, regulator (right) - Src 3.0 lbs - Glove box assembly - Src 3.0 lbs - Door speaker (left) - Src 3.0 lbs - Door speaker (right) - Src 3 lb, 8 oz - driver side seat belt and fasteners - Src 11 oz - cd changer pack, no cds - Src 6-1/2 oz - 12 cds - Src 2 lb, 2 oz - trunk side storage covers, both - Src 1 lb, 10 oz - passenger floormat - Src 2.5 oz - Right seat button surround part # 1027308 2.5 oz - Ashtray 3 oz - Driver's seat frame plastic bracket covers and front bolts 5 oz - Seat belt top bolt and covers 1.5 oz - Dashboard cigarette lighter male & female Seats Sparco - Src I'm using the Sparco Evo 2 as the largest possible seat that can fit, so all the seats below should fit. 20.91"/531mm base, 23.66"/601mm shoulder 18.00 lbs - Sprint (steel tube) 15.00 lbs - Ultra (fiberglass) 16.50 lbs - Off Road (fiberglass) 18.50 lbs - All Road (fiberglass) 21.50 lbs - Pro 2000 (fiberglass) 13.00 lbs - Pro 2000 (carbon fiber) 18.50 lbs - Evo (fiberglass) 12.50 lbs - Evo (carbon fiber) 20.00 lbs - Evo 2 (fiberglass) 17.50 lbs - Pro WRC (fiberglass) 14.50 lbs - Pro WRC (carbon fiber) 18.00 lbs - Rev (fiberglass) 22.00 lbs - Corsa (fiberglass) 12.50 lbs - Corsa (carbon fiber) 25.00 lbs - Circuit (fiberglass) 15.00 lbs - Circuit S-light (carbon fiber) 14.00 lbs - S-light (carbon fiber) 17.00 lbs - Speed (steel tube) 44.00 lbs - Milano (steel tube) 40.00 lbs - Monza (steel tube) 40.00 lbs - Torino (steel tube) 48.00 lbs - Milano Presige (steel tube) 16.00 lbs - Roadster (fiberglass) 20.00 lbs - Fighter (fiberglass) Cobra seats I'm using the Sparco Evo 2 as the largest possible seat that can fit, so all the seats below should fit. 20.91"/531mm base, 23.66"/601mm shoulder 14.3 lbs - Aqua 4x4 (fiberglass) 17.6 lbs - Evolution (fiberglass) 14.1 lbs - Evolution Technology (carbon fiber) 14.3 lbs - Imola (fiberglass) 11.2 lbs - Imola Technology (carbon fiber) 15.4 lbs - Suzuka (fiberglass) 12.3 lbs - Suzuka Technology (carbon fiber) 19.8 lbs - Monaco (steel) Other seats from Flying Miata site that aren't listed above I'm using the Sparco Evo 2 as the largest possible seat that can fit, so all the seats below should fit. 20.91"/531mm base, 23.66"/601mm shoulder 12.00 lbs - Aerosport AS100 7.50 lbs - Aerosport AS100/CK 12.00 lbs - Aerosport AS100N 7.50 lbs - Aerosport AS100N/CK 16.00 lbs - Aerosport AS200 30.00 lbs - Corbeau A4 12.00 lbs - Corbeau Classic Bucket 21.00 lbs - Corbeau Classic II 16.00 lbs - Corbeau Forza 25.00 lbs - Corbeau GT7 12.00 lbs - Corbeau GTA Lo Back 10.50 lbs - Corbeau Monza 42.00 lbs - Koenig Bio-Med 32.00 lbs - Koenig CL200 32.00 lbs - Koenig CP200 30.00 lbs - Koenig CP700 28.00 lbs - Koenig CPK700 38.00 lbs - Koenig K370 38.00 lbs - Koenig K530 38.00 lbs - Koenig K4000 31.00 lbs - Koenig K5000 31.00 lbs - Koenig K5000G 36.00 lbs - Koenig Miata 32.00 lbs - Koenig RL200 12.00 lbs - Koenig RS1000 10.00 lbs - Koenig RS2000 10.00 lbs - Koenig RS3000 26.00 lbs - Koenig S50 30.00 lbs - Koenig S100 28.00 lbs - Koenig SP700 28.00 lbs - Koenig Speedster 12.60 lbs - Momo Start 16.90 lbs - Momo T-Frame 14.70 lbs - NEX Racing Seat 16.50 lbs - NEX Reclinable Racing Seat 13.20 lbs - OMP Champion 18.50 lbs - OMP Eco 15.00 lbs - OMP Evoluzione 24.30 lbs - OMP Rec 24.30 lbs - OMP Red 19.00 lbs - OMP San Remo 14.30 lbs - OMP Sport 19.80 lbs - OMP Strada 19.50 lbs - Procar by Scat, Race 1600 Series 16.50 lbs - Procar by Scat, Xtreme 1700 Series 14.30 lbs - RaceTech JetSprint 16.50 lbs - RaceTech ProSprint 18.70 lbs - RaceTech RAC 4009 13.20 lbs - RaceTech RAC 9000 14.30 lbs - RaceTech RAC 9009 9.90 lbs - Recaro SPA 12.10 lbs - SPA Racer Fasteners -- no weights, just intentions to replace with Al or Ti ?? oz - Bolt, Rocker Arm Cover 202-12556430 M6x1.0x33.5 - Src ?? oz - Bolt, HDR Pt (Bolt, Eng Lift Brkt) 231-11516328 M10x1.5x30 - Src ?? oz - Stud, Ign Coil M6x1.0x40 239/240-12557539 - Src ?? oz - Bolt, Front/Rear Timing Cover M8x1.25x30 277/309-11515758 - Src ?? oz - Bolt, Flywhl M11x1.5x23.5 124-12553332 - Src ?? oz - Bolt, CLU Press Plt M10x1.5x25 174-12561465 - Src |
